16 Sep 2006: Part 1 (Angkor Wat)
I couldn’t catch the sunrise but I was there luckily when all the tourist hoard was away.I hired a tuk-tuk for 7 USD (whole day) that would take me to Angkor Wat, Bayon, Baphoun, Prae Khan and Phnom Bakeng (Tourist spot: Sunset view point).
The Tuk-tuk dropped me off at Angkor at 9AM after collecting my three day pass, to visit all the temples of Angkor, for 40USD. The weather was pleasant and would get hotter as the sun goes high. The sight was breath taking. A huge moat surrounds Angkor wat and a bridge connects the gopura at the entrance to the causeway.
The causeway could be approx. a kilometre. The stones that make the causeway are worn out. Taking millions of tourists now and thousands and monks and visitors in the past the stones show their age by the smoothness on them. As I walked on it Water reservoirs in front of the structure are filled with lotuses and provides a perfect and a complete reflection of Angkor wat.
Lotus bud like stupas rising high pointing towards the sky. Four stupas surrounding a huge one in the center. Apparently, these were built according to the Hindu cosmology.
Steep stairways (steep as 75deg) providing access to the hallways and to the prayer rooms. A step inside these temples takes your imagination back a couple of thousand years. The archaeologists have dated this structure to belong to the 10 century, 967 A.D but are now reconsidering the date as they suspect that it could be older because the architecture of the 10th century some how doesn’t match with that of Angkor’s. I spotted some monks climbing the steep stairways effortlessly by using their hands, it seemed to me like as if they were rock-climbing minus the gear. I later found that it really reduces the effort if one walks up by using the hands on the next step as support. Really fascinating. The most fascinating of all are the carvings on the walls they are so ornately carved that some are almost three dimensional. So much detail went into it. What still fascinated me was how it stood strong against time, ageing gracefully and exhibiting more beauty as it grew old. How did this structure make it through rain, storm and other calamities that nature brings? I read somewhere that there were no earthquakes registered in Cambodia till date.
I wondered why would someone build something like that? Why were the stairs so steep? Why were they built so high above the ground level, so high that once you climb to any one of the stupas you could almost see the flat landscape for miles and miles. Was it to keep an eye to the approaching enemies? How the hell did they build those high rise structures? How did the stone reach so high? Did they use pulley’s? or was it just manpower? Many questions lingered in my head.
Stone, stone and stone everywhere. Chocolate chip colored. Algae and fungi found their homes on the moist corners of the walls.
The clock was now showing 11:45am. Wow! time just flies by. Apparently the busiest time at Angkor is at sunrise and at 3pm onwards, guess I have missed all the tourist hoards.
I have shot many pictures at Angkor wat but I don’t think any lens could capture the complete beauty of Angkor wat.
I got back to the tuk-tuk where my friendly driver waited for me to take to the next wonder that Cambodia has to offer the Bayon..
Posted by Saha on September 26, 2006 at 1:56 am
Very nice. When I was there 3 months ago, I climed to the very top. Well, the top, as far as tourist were allowed to go. A strong gust of wind and rained hit us for about an hour, so we stayed up there to ride out the rain. The detailed carvings at Angkor looks to me like long, arduous, hand-crafted work of art. I can’t imagine how long it would take to complete these fine arts. For most of Angkor, which Angkor wat is a part of, the work are usually incomplete. In a book called “Ancient Angkor” by Michael Freeman and Claude Jacques, they said that indeed, most of Angkor are incomplete. For example, in Banteay Srei, the outside carving is much less detailed than the interier. Whether it is incomplete, or meant to be that way, Angkor Wat and it’s many counterparts throughout Srok Khmer or Cambodia is a sight of wonder and beauty.
Posted by praveenc on September 27, 2006 at 3:59 am
Thank you saha!!. You must be proud to have roots from a culture rich, nature rich country like Cambodia. It was an experience that words can’t explain. The art on the bas-reliefs tells us that the artists must have spent years together on those stones to pour life into them.
I’m in love with that country. I wish to go back there again.
Cheers
Posted by Suresh Gundappa on September 27, 2006 at 6:19 pm
Brilliant and serene photographs!. thank you so much for sharing. Cambodia is really gifted poetic place. I am in love with that country.
Posted by Saha on September 28, 2006 at 9:04 pm
I agree that the photos you took are simply breath-taking. It is serene and poetic. Thank you so much for sharing it. Kyom saline srok khmer nas (I love Cambodia).
Posted by Bobby Dylan on May 13, 2008 at 1:14 am
This is weird….it doesn’t tell me anything i need to know!!! How long did it take to build Angkor Wat!! Jesus!!! I have two days to get the answer to that question….i’ve been searching fo over two weeks!! ahhhhhh….plz plz plz help me!!! what the hell am i gonna do?
Posted by Rahmi at Holiday In Angkor Wat on May 30, 2008 at 4:10 pm
I really like your sunrise photo!
Posted by Animesh Singh on June 3, 2008 at 9:04 am
Brilliant travelogue and awesome pics!!!
I am all set to visit Coambodia in next 10 days time. Will love to get some tips on travel and stay. Most of the website scream about touts and scams!!! is it really that bad????
I will be going to Cambodia from bangkok so need some guidence on mode of travel as well – Air, Train or by road.
Thanks in advance Praveen.
Posted by Rahmi from Holiday In Angkor Wat on June 11, 2008 at 1:48 am
Great website!
That sunrise picture with the blue hue is really stunning.